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Net Worth Calculator (US, 2026)

Add up what you own, subtract what you owe, and see the one number that actually tracks financial progress — then keep it live automatically in Hunch.

Assets
Liabilities
After-tax net worth
Your net worth
$247,000
assets minus what you owe
Total assets$585,000
Total liabilities$338,000
Tax owed on the tax-deferred account-$18,000
Net worth after that tax$229,000
AssetsLiabilities
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Guides

Guides that explain this calculator

The financial health checkup: five numbers that matterA financial health checkup is five numbers, not one — savings rate, emergency-fund months, fixed-cost share, debt-to-income, and net-worth trend. Run all five together every quarter, and fix whichever number is worst first, since fixing it often helps the rest.Read the guideGood debt vs bad debt — what actually separates themGood debt finances something that appreciates or raises your earning power, at a rate below what that money would otherwise return. Bad debt finances consumption at a rate above it. Most debt sits between the two, and the label can change with your circumstances.Read the guideHow to calculate and track your net worthNet worth is what you own minus what you owe, valued honestly rather than optimistically. Track it quarterly from a real balance sheet, use the trend rather than the number to judge progress, and treat age-based comparison tables as entertainment, not a benchmark.Read the guideManaging money as a coupleMost couples land on one of three systems — fully joint, fully separate, or a hybrid with a shared account for shared costs. The hybrid plus proportional bill-splitting fits the widest range of couples, but the system matters less than agreeing on it explicitly and reviewing it regularly.Read the guideWhat is a good savings rate?Ten percent of take-home pay is a floor, 20% is a good target, and above 30% you are buying years of freedom rather than just security. What counts as good depends on when you started and what you are aiming at.Read the guide
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Good to know
  • Net worth is assets minus liabilities — the one figure that moves only when you genuinely get wealthier or poorer.
  • Value assets at what they would sell for today, and debts at today’s balance rather than the original amount.
  • Include the home at market value and its mortgage as a liability; the gap between them is your home equity.
  • Read the trend, not the reading — monthly is frequent enough to see it and infrequent enough to ignore market noise.

How to calculate your net worth

Net worth is everything you own minus everything you owe. List cash and savings, registered investments, your property at market value, and vehicles or anything else worth counting; then list the mortgage, loans and credit-card balances standing against them. The difference is the number.

Two rules keep that number honest. Assets go in at what they would sell for today, not what you paid — a home bought for $400,000 and now worth $550,000 counts as $550,000. Liabilities go in at today’s outstanding balance, not the original loan amount. The same rule catches cars: one goes in at what it would fetch today, which in the first couple of years is often well below the loan still standing against it.

A third rule is the one most net-worth calculators skip: $100,000 in a traditional 401(k) is not $100,000 in a Roth. Withdrawing from a traditional account triggers income tax at whatever rate applies then; a Roth never does. Investments split into two lines — tax-deferred and tax-free — and the result card reports both the conventional net-worth figure and what is left after the tax-deferred bucket's future tax bill.

A single reading is nearly useless; the trend is everything. The reason to record it monthly is that it catches the two things a checking-account balance hides completely: debt quietly growing, and asset values moving while you do nothing at all. It is also the only measure that treats a raise and a debt repayment as the same kind of progress, which is why it belongs on a chart in a way that income does not.

The math

Net worth = total assets − total liabilities. The split bar under the result divides total assets by the sum of assets and liabilities, so a bar weighted heavily toward assets means little of what you own is financed by someone else.

After-tax net worth subtracts one more thing: the tax the tax-deferred bucket will owe on withdrawal, estimated as that balance × your expected retirement tax rate. The tax-free bucket needs no adjustment — it was already taxed on the way in, or never taxed at all, depending on the account — and neither does anything outside registered investments, since this calculator doesn't model capital-gains tax on a taxable brokerage account or property.

The ratio worth watching alongside the number is debt-to-assets: total liabilities ÷ total assets. It says how much of what you own is really a lender’s claim, and it moves independently of net worth — a rising property market can lift your net worth and your leverage at the same time.

The judgement call here is valuation, not arithmetic. A home is worth what a buyer will pay; a private business or a pension is genuinely hard to value; a car loses value the entire time you own it. The retirement tax rate is a guess too — nobody knows their bracket decades out — so round conservatively on both, and re-enter the estimates only a few times a year. Consistency between readings matters far more than precision within any one of them.

Worked example

The calculator opens on $20,000 in cash, $60,000 tax-deferred, $30,000 tax-free, a $450,000 property and $25,000 of vehicles and other assets — $585,000 in assets. Against that: a $320,000 mortgage, $15,000 of loans and $3,000 on credit cards, so $338,000 in liabilities. Net worth is $585,000 − $338,000 = $247,000.

At a 30% expected retirement tax rate, the $60,000 tax-deferred balance still owes $18,000 in tax whenever it's withdrawn. After-tax net worth is $247,000 − $18,000 = $229,000 — an $18,000 gap the conventional figure never shows, and one that grows every time more goes into the tax-deferred bucket instead of the tax-free one.

Two more things that single number hides. Debt is 57.8% of assets, so most of the property is still the lender's; and home equity is only $130,000 of the $247,000 total, with the rest in cash and investments. Move $10,000 of cash onto the loans and net worth does not change at all — but debt-to-assets falls to 57.0%, which is real progress the headline figure cannot show.

Key terms

Asset
Anything with resale value: bank accounts, taxable and retirement investments, property, vehicles, business equity.
Liability
Anything you owe: mortgage balance, student and auto loans, home equity lines of credit, credit-card balances.
Home equity
A property’s current market value minus the mortgage still owed against it. Often the largest single component of a US household’s net worth.
Liquid assets
Assets convertible to cash quickly and without much loss — a savings account or a taxable brokerage account, as opposed to a house or a pension.

Why track net worth instead of income?

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Income is what comes in; net worth is what you keep. Watching net worth grow over time is the clearest measure of real financial progress.

Should I include my home and car?

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Include your home at its market value (with the mortgage as a liability). Cars can be included at resale value, but remember they depreciate over time.

What if my net worth is negative?

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That’s common early on, especially with student loans or a new mortgage. The trend matters more than the starting point — focus on moving it up.

Can Hunch track this automatically?

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Yes. Link your accounts and Hunch keeps your net worth live, updating balances and asset values so you never have to tally it by hand.

Should I include my 401(k) and IRA?

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Yes, at their current balance. A traditional 401(k) or IRA is worth less than its balance once withdrawal tax is paid, so some people discount it by their expected retirement tax rate — but as long as you are consistent from one reading to the next, either treatment shows the same trend.

Does a pension count?

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It has real value, but not a market value you can look up. The present value on your annual statement is the closest figure. Many people leave it out and track it separately instead, because folding a large, illiquid, hard-to-value asset into the total can make a net worth look far healthier than the money you could actually reach.