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Home Affordability Calculator (US, 2026)

Find the mortgage and home price your income actually supports under the 28/36 front-end and back-end DTI ratios lenders use — then save toward the down payment automatically in Hunch.

Country
Amortization
$/mo
Home you can afford
$427,049
with $60,000 down at 6.5% · 30-year term
Max monthly payment$2,320/mo
Loan amount$367,049
Down payment$60,000
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Affordability at different interest rates

Your income and debts set the payment — $2,320 a month here — and the rate decides what that payment buys. Every row below holds the income, debts and down payment fixed and moves only the rate.

Maximum mortgage and home price by interest rate, on $120,000 of gross income, $400 a month of existing debt payments and $60,000 down.
Interest rateMax mortgageMax home priceChange vs. your rate
5%$432,173$492,173+$65,124
5.5%$408,602$468,602+$41,553
6%$386,957$446,957+$19,907
6.5% — your rate$367,049$427,049
7%$348,714$408,714−$18,336
7.5%$331,801$391,801−$35,248
8%$316,178$376,178−$50,871

Front-end and back-end DTI ratios only, at the loan term set above — before mortgage insurance, credit assessment and the loan-program overlays a lender adds.

An estimate from the 28/36 DTI ratios only. Lenders also weigh credit score, employment history and the overlays of the loan program you apply under.
Guides

Guides that explain this calculator

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Good to know
  • Two ratios apply — front-end at 28% of gross income for housing, back-end at 36% for housing plus all other debt — and the tighter one sets your maximum.
  • Every dollar of existing monthly debt payment comes straight off the back-end budget, so clearing a car loan can raise your ceiling more than a raise does.
  • Property taxes and homeowners insurance belong inside the front-end ratio — left at zero, the price shown is optimistic by tens of thousands.
  • 28/36 is a conservative guideline, not a legal cap: qualified-mortgage rules allow a back-end ratio up to 43%, and FHA underwriting often goes higher.

How much house you can afford

Enter your gross annual income, the minimum payments on debt you already carry, your down payment, a rate and a loan term. The calculator finds the largest monthly housing payment that stays inside both of the debt-to-income ratios a lender applies, converts that payment into a mortgage, and adds your down payment to get a purchase price.

Two ratios, not one. The front-end ratio caps housing costs on their own; the back-end ratio caps housing plus every other monthly payment you make. Whichever leaves less room is the one that decides your number — which is why paying off a car loan can raise your maximum price more than a raise would.

The result is a ceiling, not a target, and it is not a pre-approval. A lender also weighs your credit score, your employment history and the loan program you apply under, several of which allow ratios well above the standard pair. Treat the figure as the top of the range worth shopping in, then decide how far below it you actually want to live.

The math

Gross monthly income is your annual income divided by twelve. The front-end (housing) DTI ratio is capped at 28% of it and covers principal, interest, property taxes and homeowners insurance — the PITI payment. The back-end (total) DTI ratio is capped at 36% and adds every other monthly obligation: car loans, student loans, minimum credit-card payments, child support. The calculator takes the smaller of 28% of income and 36% of income minus your existing debt payments, subtracts the taxes and insurance you enter under Advanced options, and treats the remainder as the mortgage payment budget.

That payment becomes a loan by running the amortization formula backwards: L = P · (1 − (1 + r)⁻ⁿ) ÷ r, where P is the monthly payment, r is the annual rate divided by 12 and n is the number of months. Adding the down payment gives the purchase price.

28/36 is the conservative conventional guideline, not a legal limit. Qualified-mortgage rules run on a back-end ratio up to 43%, FHA loans routinely approve past that with compensating factors, and automated underwriting stretches further still. The number here is deliberately tighter than the largest loan you could probably get — which is a different question from the largest one you should take.

Worked example

Take the numbers the calculator opens with: $120,000 of gross income, $400 a month of existing debt payments, $60,000 down, 6.5% over 30 years. Gross monthly income is $10,000. The front-end cap allows $2,800 a month; the back-end cap allows $3,600 less the $400 already committed, so $3,200. Front-end is tighter, so $2,800 is the budget — a mortgage of about $442,990 and a purchase price of about $502,990.

Now put $500 a month of property taxes and homeowners insurance into Advanced options, which is what the front-end ratio is meant to include. The mortgage budget drops to $2,300, the loan to about $363,885 and the price to about $423,885 — roughly $79,000 less house for a cost most buyers forget to enter. Paying off the $400 debt instead changes nothing here, because the back-end ratio was never binding.

Key terms

Front-end DTI
Housing costs — principal, interest, property taxes and homeowners insurance — as a share of gross monthly income. Conventionally capped at 28%.
Back-end DTI
All monthly debt payments including housing, as a share of gross monthly income. Conventionally capped at 36%; qualified-mortgage rules allow up to 43%.
PITI
Principal, interest, taxes and insurance — the four parts of the payment a lender measures against the front-end ratio, not just the loan payment itself.
Gross income
Income before tax and deductions. Every ratio here is measured against it rather than take-home pay, which is why the maximum can look larger than your real budget.

What is the 28/36 rule?

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The conventional pair of debt-to-income limits: housing costs under 28% of gross monthly income, and all debt payments including housing under 36%. Both have to hold, and whichever binds first sets your maximum. It is a guideline lenders price around rather than a legal ceiling — qualified-mortgage rules allow a back-end ratio up to 43%.

Does a bigger down payment let me afford more?

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Yes. Your down payment adds directly to the price you can buy, and it reduces the loan you need — so more of your monthly budget buys home rather than interest.

Should I always borrow the maximum?

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No. The maximum is a ceiling, not a target. Leaving room for savings, emergencies and life keeps you out of being “house poor.”

How does Hunch help me save for a home?

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Set a down-payment goal in Hunch and it tracks your progress automatically, showing when you’ll hit your target based on your real saving pace.

Why is the price here higher than what my lender approved?

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Usually two reasons. This calculator uses the conservative 28/36 pair and your lender may apply a different one, and it starts with taxes and insurance at zero — enter them under Advanced options and most of the gap closes. Credit score, employment history and mortgage insurance on a low down payment explain the rest.

How much down payment do I need?

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Three per cent on many conventional loans, 3.5% on an FHA loan, and nothing at all on VA and USDA loans for buyers who qualify. Below 20% on a conventional loan you pay private mortgage insurance until you reach 20% equity, and that premium eats into the same monthly budget the ratios cap.

What is a housing ratio, and what is a good one?

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The housing ratio is your housing costs as a share of gross income — the front-end ratio, and the first of the two above. Lenders commonly cap it at 28%, and the back-end ratio including all other debt at 36% (up to 43% for a qualified mortgage). Those are ceilings, not targets: at the cap, very little is left once tax comes off. The calculator shows what price a more comfortable ratio corresponds to.

How do I know if I will be house poor?

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Being house poor means the mortgage is affordable on paper and nothing else is. The test is not the ratio but the remainder: take the monthly payment this calculator produces, add property tax, insurance, HOA dues and maintenance, subtract all of it from your take-home pay rather than your gross, and see what is left for savings, transport, food and everything unplanned. If the answer is close to zero, the lender will still approve it and you should still buy less.