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Compound Growth Calculator (Canada, 2026)

Project what a starting balance and a monthly contribution grow into, and see how much of the ending total is your money versus growth — then track the real portfolio in Hunch.

Future value in 20 years
$300,851
at 7% average annual return
Year 0Year 20
You contribute$130,000
Growth earned$170,851
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Year-by-year projection

The path to the number in the result card: what you have put in by the end of each year, how much growth has been added on top, and where the balance stands.

Contributions, growth and ending balance at the end of each year, starting from $10,000 and adding $500 a month at 7%.
YearContributions to dateGrowth to dateEnding balance
Year 1$16,000$919$16,919
Year 2$22,000$2,339$24,339
Year 3$28,000$4,294$32,294
Year 4$34,000$6,825$40,825
Year 5$40,000$9,973$49,973
Year 6$46,000$13,782$59,782
Year 7$52,000$18,299$70,299
Year 8$58,000$23,578$81,578
Year 9$64,000$29,671$93,671
Year 10$70,000$36,639$106,639
Year 11$76,000$44,544$120,544
Year 12$82,000$53,455$135,455
Year 13$88,000$63,443$151,443
Year 14$94,000$74,587$168,587
Year 15$100,000$86,971$186,971
Year 16$106,000$100,683$206,683
Year 17$112,000$115,820$227,820
Year 18$118,000$132,486$250,486
Year 19$124,000$150,790$274,790
Year 20$130,000$170,851$300,851

Contributions are added at the end of each month and the return is applied as a constant monthly rate. Fees, tax and inflation are not modelled.

Assumes a constant annual return compounded monthly. Real returns vary.
Guides

Guides that explain this calculator

Borrowing to invest — leverage, honestly assessedBorrowing to invest does not raise your expected return. It multiplies the size of your position, so every outcome — good and bad — arrives magnified, and it removes your ability to wait out the bad ones. The deduction helps at the margin; it rescues nothing.Read the guideCoast FIRE — the math of front-loading your retirement numberA coast number is your FIRE number divided by (1 + expected real return) raised to the years remaining. Reach it and the portfolio alone grows into your target — no further contributions required, only time and an assumed rate of return.Read the guideExtra mortgage payments or invest the difference?Compare your mortgage rate — a guaranteed, tax-free return — against what you realistically expect a portfolio to return, discounted for risk. A wide spread favours investing; a narrow or negative one favours prepaying. Near retirement, low risk tolerance, or a high rate all tilt toward the guarantee.Read the guideHow compound interest actually worksCompound interest is growth earning its own growth — each return joins the balance and the next return is calculated on the larger total. Time multiplies the effect more than rate does, which is why starting early beats saving harder, and why untouched debt climbs the same curve.Read the guideThe Smith Manoeuvre, explained honestlyThe Smith Manoeuvre uses a readvanceable mortgage to reborrow every principal payment and invest it, converting non-deductible mortgage debt into deductible investment debt. The tax treatment is real. So is the leverage — total debt never falls, and the strategy asks for decades of discipline.Read the guideThe TFSA, explained properlyA TFSA is a container, not an investment. Room accrues by calendar year from the year you turn 18, carries forward indefinitely, and returns after a withdrawal only on January 1st of the following year — putting it back sooner is an over-contribution taxed at 1% a month.Read the guide
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Good to know
  • Compounding means growth earns growth, so after enough years most of the balance is growth rather than contributions.
  • The assumed return is the input the result is most sensitive to, and the one you have least control over.
  • Time beats size: on the default plan, ten extra years more than doubles the ending balance without raising the contribution.
  • This is a nominal, pre-fee, pre-tax projection — net fees off the rate you enter, and inflation too for today’s dollars.

How compound growth works

Give the calculator four things: what you have now, what you add each month, the annual return you want to assume, and how many years you are leaving it alone. It compounds the balance forward month by month and returns the ending value, split into the part you contributed and the part the market added.

That split is the point of the exercise. Over a short horizon almost all of the balance is your own contributions; somewhere in the second decade growth usually overtakes them, and after that the gap widens quickly. The stacked bars in the result show where that crossover falls for the numbers you entered, and the table below gives the exact figure for every year.

The return you assume matters more than any other input and is the one thing here you cannot control. Run the projection two or three times — an optimistic rate, a plain one and a pessimistic one — and treat the spread between them as the answer rather than trusting any single line. A projection is a range wearing the costume of a number.

The math

The projection is the future value of a lump sum plus the future value of an ordinary annuity: FV = P · (1 + i)ⁿ + C · ((1 + i)ⁿ − 1) ÷ i, where P is the starting amount, C is the monthly contribution, i is the annual return divided by 12 and n is the number of months. The first term grows what you already hold; the second grows each contribution for however many months are left after it lands.

Contributions are treated as arriving at the end of each month — the ordinary-annuity convention, and the conservative one, since money paid in on the first would earn an extra period of growth. The return is applied as a constant monthly rate, so an assumed 7% year is twelve identical months rather than a real year of gains and drops. Real sequences with the same average end at different places; this is the smooth middle of them.

Three things the model leaves out, all of which push the real number down: fees, tax on anything held outside an RRSP or TFSA, and inflation. Enter a return you have already netted fees off, and subtract expected inflation from it as well if you want the answer in today’s dollars rather than future face value.

Worked example

The defaults describe an ordinary plan: $10,000 already invested, $500 added every month, 7% a year, 20 years. That grows to about $300,851. You will have put in $130,000 of it, so the other $170,851 is growth — more than half the ending balance, earned by money rather than by you.

Leave the same plan alone for ten more years and it reaches roughly $691,150. Contributions only rise to $190,000, so the extra decade added about $390,000, almost all of it growth on growth already earned. Ten years of patience did more than doubling the monthly contribution would have — which is the entire argument for starting early rather than starting bigger.

Key terms

Compounding
Earning a return on your returns as well as on your original money. It is what bends the curve upward instead of leaving it a straight line.
Future value
The projected balance at the end of the horizon, contributions and growth combined — the figure in the result card.
Nominal return
A return before inflation is removed. Subtract expected inflation to get the real return, which is the one that tells you about purchasing power.
Rule of 72
A shortcut: 72 divided by the annual return is roughly how many years money takes to double. At 7% that is a bit over ten years.

What return rate should I use?

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A diversified stock portfolio has historically returned roughly 7% per year after inflation over the long run, though any single year can be very different. Use a conservative figure for planning.

Why does starting early matter so much?

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Because growth compounds, money invested in your 20s has decades to snowball. Even small monthly contributions started early often beat larger amounts started later.

Does this account for inflation?

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Use a real (after-inflation) return if you want the result in today’s dollars, or a nominal return to see the future face value. The calculator applies the rate you enter.

Can Hunch track my real investments?

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Yes — Hunch syncs your brokerages and shows live holdings, returns and allocation, so you can compare your real growth to your plan.

Does this account for fees?

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No — enter a return you have already netted fees off. A fund charging 1% a year turns an assumed 7% into 6%, and on the default plan that single percentage point is about $36,700 less after 20 years. Management fees are the one drag on a portfolio you can check in an afternoon and change permanently.

Are contributions added at the start or the end of the month?

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At the end, which is the standard ordinary-annuity convention and the more conservative of the two. Contributing on the first instead would earn one extra month of growth on every deposit — worth roughly one month’s return on your average balance, which is real but never enough to change a plan.