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50/30/20 Budget Calculator (Canada, 2026)

Split your monthly take-home pay into needs, wants and savings, see the three dollar amounts instantly, then let Hunch sort your real spending into the same three buckets.

What's actually left to save
$1,040
20% of pay — the 20% target is $1,040
Needs · 50%$2,600 ($0)
Wants · 30%$1,560 ($0)
Savings & debt · 20%$1,040 ($0)
Needs 50% Wants 30% Save 20%
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Guides

Guides that explain this calculator

Does the 50/30/20 rule still work?The 50/30/20 rule — half of take-home to needs, 30% to wants, 20% to saving — is a useful screening test, not a plan. High rents break the 50, high incomes hide undersaving in the 20; adapt the split honestly, and graduate to a real budget when a real goal appears.Read the guideHow much car can you actually afford?The payment is a fraction of what a car costs each month once insurance, fuel, maintenance and depreciation are added in. Budget the full cost, not just the loan, and a shorter term on a smaller price beats a long term on a bigger one almost every time.Read the guideHow much should I save each month?As a starting point, save 20% of your take-home pay. That figure is a default, not an answer — the number that matters is the one that clears your specific goals on your specific timeline.Read the guideHow to budget on an irregular incomeBudget from a baseline month — your lowest realistic income — and pay yourself that amount as a monthly salary from a buffer account where all income lands. Good months fill the buffer, lean months draw on it, and windfalls get split by a rule you set in advance.Read the guideManaging money as a coupleMost couples land on one of three systems — fully joint, fully separate, or a hybrid with a shared account for shared costs. The hybrid plus proportional bill-splitting fits the widest range of couples, but the system matters less than agreeing on it explicitly and reviewing it regularly.Read the guideWhat is a sinking fund — and how do you set one up?A sinking fund converts a known irregular expense — an insurance premium, car repairs, gifts, travel — into a fixed monthly transfer. Divide the cost by the months until it's due. It keeps predictable bills out of your emergency fund and turns budget shocks into line items.Read the guideThe subscription audit — finding your money leaksPull every card and bank statement for the last twelve months, list every recurring charge, and sort each into keep, downgrade, share, or cancel. The habit that matters most afterward is calendaring renewal dates, not the one-time cleanup.Read the guideWhy does tracking your spending change your behaviour?Tracking works by closing the gap between what you believe you spend and what a statement shows — sorting purchases into categories turns a blended balance into visible trade-offs. The effect is strongest in month one and fades unless the review becomes a habit.Read the guideZero-based budgeting vs pay-yourself-firstZero-based budgeting assigns every dollar a job and buys control at the cost of ongoing effort; pay-yourself-first automates savings and ignores the rest. Variable income and thin margins favour zero-based; steady salaries favour automation — and a hybrid of the two beats either run rigidly.Read the guide
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Good to know
  • All three figures come from one input: needs are 50% of take-home pay, wants 30%, and savings plus above-minimum debt payments 20%.
  • Use take-home pay, not gross salary — percentages of gross overstate every bucket by roughly the size of your tax bill.
  • If needs run well over 50%, the fix is on the fixed side — housing, transport, insurance — not in the discretionary column.
  • Minimum debt payments are a need; every dollar paid above the minimum belongs in the 20%.

How the 50/30/20 budget calculator works

The 50/30/20 rule takes one number — your monthly take-home pay, after tax and payroll deductions — and splits it three ways: half to needs, three-tenths to wants, and a fifth to savings and debt repayment. Move the slider and you get three dollar amounts rather than three percentages, which is the form you can actually check a bank statement against.

Needs are the costs you cannot stop paying this month without a real consequence: rent or mortgage, groceries, utilities, insurance, getting to work, and the minimum payment on every debt. Wants are everything discretionary — dining out, subscriptions, travel, hobbies. The remaining fifth covers saving, investing, and any debt payment above the minimum.

Its value is as a diagnostic, not a straitjacket. If your needs come out at 62% of take-home pay, that is the finding: the fixed side of your budget is where the work is, and trimming the discretionary column cannot close a gap that size. Housing, transport and insurance move slowly, but on a needs-heavy budget they are the only levers that move at all.

The math

The arithmetic is one multiplication per line: needs = pay × 0.50, wants = pay × 0.30, savings = pay × 0.20, where pay is monthly take-home — net of income tax, CPP or QPP, EI and anything else deducted at source. The percentages are shares of that net figure, not of gross salary; running them on gross inflates all three targets by roughly the size of your tax bill.

Three assumptions are baked in. Income is treated as level month to month, so variable or commission income should be budgeted on a conservative figure rather than on a good month. Money deducted at source for a group RRSP or a pension never appears, because it is not in take-home pay — to count it towards the 20%, add it to both the income and the savings side so the percentages stay honest. And the split is silent on ordering: an emergency fund and a 22% credit-card balance share the same bucket without deserving the same priority.

The ratios themselves come from All Your Worth, by Elizabeth Warren and Amelia Warren Tyagi. They were calibrated to middle-income households two decades ago and carry no statistical guarantee — treat 50/30/20 as a reference line to measure against, not a rule you have failed.

Worked example

At the default $5,200 a month of take-home pay, the split is $2,600 for needs, $1,560 for wants and $1,040 for savings and debt — $12,480 a year going into the last bucket.

Now suppose the month actually came in at $3,050 of needs, $1,300 of wants and $850 saved. That is 59% needs, 25% wants and 16% savings. The instinct is to attack the $1,300 of wants, but wants are already under target: the entire $450 gap is on the needs side, and nothing in the discretionary column can close it. What can — a lower housing cost, a re-shopped insurance renewal, a cheaper commute, or more income. That is the whole point of splitting the budget three ways instead of watching one total.

Key terms

Take-home pay
What actually reaches your account after income tax, CPP or QPP, EI and any payroll deductions. Every percentage on this page is a share of this figure, not of gross salary.
Needs
Spending you cannot stop this month without a real consequence — housing, groceries, utilities, insurance, commuting, and the minimum payment on every debt.
Wants
Discretionary spending: dining out, subscriptions, travel, hobbies. The easiest category to change and, when needs are over budget, almost never where the problem actually is.
50/30/20 rule
The budgeting guideline popularised in All Your Worth by Elizabeth Warren and Amelia Warren Tyagi, allocating after-tax income 50% to needs, 30% to wants and 20% to savings and debt.

What counts as a need vs. a want?

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Needs are essentials you can’t skip — rent, groceries, utilities, minimum debt payments, transport to work. Wants are the nice-to-haves like dining out, subscriptions and travel.

What goes in the 20%?

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Saving and investing plus any extra debt payments beyond the minimums — emergency fund, retirement contributions, and paying down high-interest balances faster.

What if my needs are more than 50%?

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In high-cost areas that’s common. Treat 50/30/20 as a target: trim wants, then work on raising income or lowering fixed costs to move toward it over time.

How does Hunch make budgeting easier?

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Hunch groups your real spending into these buckets automatically and shows where you land each month, so the budget reflects your actual life.

Should I use my pay before or after workplace deductions?

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Use what actually reaches your account. Contributions to a group RRSP or a pension come off before you ever see the money, so they are invisible to this split — if you want them counted towards your 20%, add the same amount to both the income figure and the savings figure so the percentages stay consistent.

How do I use this if my income changes every month?

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Budget on the lowest of your last twelve months rather than the average — a plan that survives a bad month never has to be redone. In good months, send the difference to the 20% bucket instead of letting wants expand to fill it.